Monday, January 30, 2012

Spray or Squeegee?

The answer to which application process is better, spray or squeegee is -  it depends. There are reputable companies that use both processes or one or the other, but the condition of the asphalt should play a part in the decision. Up near the house and next to sidewalks, an edging brush should be used to avoid over-spray. The larger open areas are where the applicator has to make a decision on which process to use.

Over-sealed surfaces can benefit from a spray application - the applicator can leave a thicker coat than with a squeegee. When using a squeegee on a smooth surface with very few voids to accept the sealer, the squeegee leaves very little sealer. The right spray technique can leave a better coat of sealer.

Porous surfaces will always cover well when sealer is hand applied, but can suffer if too light a coat is applied by spray. With spraying there are more variables that come into play, spray tip size and spray wand speed determine how thick the sealer goes on. 

Professional sealcoaters can achieve great results with both processes. Hire a reputable contractor and trust them to use the process that works best for your driveway.

Tuesday, January 3, 2012

Will Snow Plowing Damage My Asphalt?

Anything that scrapes your driveway or parking lot can damage it. Most of the snow plow damage I've seen on asphalt is minor and doesn't need structural repair. Many scrapes and scratches look worse than they really are. The sealer can be scraped off leaving unsealed aggregate, a sealcoat application in the spring should take care of the issue. Deeper scratches can be filled with crack-filler prior to the sealer application. If the gouges are deeper than 1" and the asphalt is loose, additional repairs may be necessary. The Infrared process can be used to heat the area and work asphalt back into the surface.

Some snow removal companies use a rubber or polyurethane cutting edge on their plow blades to lessen the impact on your driveway, while others set the plow blade 1/2" above the surface to avoid damage. Both of these options can leave excess snow on the asphalt. Flat surfaces usually don't see any damage, it's uneven surfaces with high areas or sudden grade changes that are most susceptible to winter plow damage.

Keep in mind that if you are looking for a very clean surface, there is a chance your asphalt may be damaged. Unless the damage is severe, ask your sealcoating contractor to address the areas in the spring and chalk it up to Mother Nature.


Friday, September 23, 2011

Is it Too Cold to Pave?

Over the years, I've inspected many asphalt surfaces that were paved when the weather wasn't ideal. Paving in colder temperatures introduces challenges to the Paving Contractor that are not present in warmer weather. The main challenge is getting the asphalt to the job and laying and compacting it before it cools down. It takes an organized crew with the proper equipment to deliver a quality job at the end of the season. In the Midwest, asphalt plants are usually open until early December. Prepared companies can usually attain good results all the way up to the end of the season. However, companies that are not set up to work fast will run into problems. Having the proper amount of people on the crew and the right equipment insures that the asphalt will be laid and compacted in a timely manner. 

If you are only repairing sections of asphalt, Infrared Repairs are a nice option. If executed properly, Infrared Repairs can be done in cold weather as long as hot asphalt is available. Infrared crews typically haul the asphalt to the job in a hotbox, which keeps it at the right temperature. In colder weather it takes a little longer to heat the repair area; but if the crew waits the proper time to heat through the whole lift, great results will follow. Adding hot asphalt into hot asphalt takes the temperature variable out of the equation. 

If you hire a reputable company, they will tell you when it's too late to do asphalt work. If you trust the company and they will guarantee the work, go ahead and have it done all the way up to the end of the season. 

For more informaton on Infrared Repairs, check out Asphalt Restoration, Inc.

Monday, August 22, 2011

You Can Drive On It, But It’s Not Cured


Now that you've spent the money to replace or repair your asphalt driveway or parking lot, it’s time to protect your investment. In hot temperatures, it’s a good idea to stay off your new asphalt for 2 days. After the 2 days are up the pavement is not cured, but is ready to be opened up to traffic. It can take up to 12 months for the liquid asphalt to fully cure, so during this time it’s important to avoid the following situations.

When driving on your new asphalt, be conscious that your car should remain in motion as you turn the steering wheel. Turning your wheel while the car is stopped will cause your tires to skid across and grab your new asphalt, causing the surface to scar. You should also avoid parking in the same spot every day, as it could cause depressions where the tires sit. Anything parked on the pavement with kick stands or trailer jacks can sink into the driveway. Make sure the surface is protected with a board to displace the weight. Gasoline, oil, transmission and power steering fluids can all penetrate into asphalt, softening it and causing structural damage. Once the asphalt has been sealcoated a few times, the chances of penetration will be diminished.

Your driveway or parking lot is naturally flexible; even when fully cured, it will never be as hard or smooth as concrete. Keep these situations in mind and you should get your pavement through the early stages without any trouble.

If any of the above situations have damaged your pavement, Infrared Repairs are ideal for repairing them without cold joints www.asphaltrestore.com



Wednesday, December 29, 2010

Does it Matter How Your Sealer is Made?

Many property owners and sealcoating contractors think that all sealer is made using the same process. There's a huge difference between the two types of manufacturing- Colloid Mill and Batch. Most sealer looks the same going down, but the longevity and color consistency really tells the story.

When sealer is made with a colloid mill, raw material is squeezed using pressure and sheared through the mill. The mill controls the pressure, temperature and flow; delivering a more homogeneous and stable material.

The batch system is similar to a cake mixer; blades spin around and mix parts of the mixture, while other parts rise above the blades. The simplicity of the system can leave you with an unstable, improperly mixed material.

Hiring a good contractor to do the job is important, but a successful project starts with the right material. The difference between the consistencies of the two products is like night and day. Ask your contractor how the sealer they use is manufactured- if they say the batch system, keep your fingers crossed that you get a good batch.

For more technical information on the two processes, go to http://www.gemseal.net/contractors/manufacturing-process.cfm

Monday, September 13, 2010

Crackfilling Before Winter


We recommend sealcoating every other year, but that doesn’t mean that you shouldn’t fill cracks and potholes every year before winter. While the sealer from the year before should still be protecting your drive, any cracks that were filled will probably be re-opened. Water will get into open cracks and expand with freezing, this will make the cracks bigger and accelerate the deterioration.

It’s a good idea to walk your drive before winter and look for cracks that have opened up. Cracks that are ¼” or larger should be cleaned and filled with a pourable crackfiller. This is an easy job for a homeowner and will save you money in the long run. Many hardware stores carry pourable crackfiller in 1 gallon jugs, just follow the manufacturers instructions for application.

Water infiltration is the most common cause of asphalt deterioration, so make sure you fill cracks every year – even if you’re not sealcoating.

Buy Crackfiller Online http://tinyurl.com/3xj9a32

Tuesday, August 10, 2010

Calling the Right Driveway Contractor

Calling the right type of Contractor to work on your driveway can save you a lot of time. When your driveway needs work, it helps to know who does what type of work. Some Contractors do it all while others specialize in certain areas. The 3 main types of driveway contractors are Paving, Repair and Sealcoating.

Pavers will generally handle repaving the whole surface by either Resurfacing or Removing and Replacing your driveway. They are usually capable of excavating and installing a gravel base as well. If you find yourself saying the driveway is [insert problem] all over, you probably need a new driveway and should call a Paver.

Repair Contractors can either specialize in sawcut and remove or Infrared Repairs. If you have a few bad areas that can not be crackfilled, they may be candidates for repair. It’s usually not cost effective to repair single cracks; but alligatored cracks, settling and potholes are problems often repaired. As a rule of thumb, if less than 20% of the drive has issues it may be worthwhile to find a Repair Contractor.

Sealcoaters fill cracks, fill potholes with cold patch and apply either coal tar or asphalt emulsion sealer. If the only real issues on your drive are single cracks, calling a sealcoater every other year will keep your driveway protected.

To recap: If most of the drive is in poor shape - call a Paver, if you have a few problem areas - call a Repair Contractor and if the drive only needs minor crackfilling and a coat of sealer - call a Sealcoater.

It’s best to explain your problem when calling for an estimate and let the contractor decide if you are calling the right place. Most good contractors will refer you to a company that may be better suited for your project.

Email photos of your problem to danbrowne@asphaltadvisor.com and we will try to direct you to the right type of contractor.